Wednesday, 14 December 2011
Unexpected
Tuesday, 22 November 2011
An image
My mum told me today that she wanted me to upload a picture of me. Hehe, I believe she wasn’t thinking about this, but since I am back on land, dry, and with only a couple of bruises and a blister as memories, there you have one in which I am pretty much in the center .
I think this rapid is the one they call The Bad Place. It’s in the first half of the typical rafting on the Nile near Jinja, in an area where there used to be the Bujagali Falls, until last week, when they closed the dam and Bujagali became a reservoir.
Monday, 21 November 2011
Little angels
Writing about the Little angels project without being able to upload pictures doesn't seem right. If I had good connection, I would upload a video, tell you that those without school uniform are in need of a sponsor, and I would let you to it. Well, no, I would add a picture of the room that was mine for three days, and then I would let you enjoy the little dancers. The connection got a fright when I tried to upload the video, so I'll have to turn to plan B.
The project was started around half a year ago by Duncan, a guy in his early twenties who was so grateful for the opportunities that he got thanks to his foreign sponsor that decided to pay it forward setting up a school for needy children and orphans by the Lake Bunyonyi. And there it is the school, simple and small, but giving the kids the chance to go to school. The level is not outstanding, but it's a beginning: at least they have a place to go where people do care for them. Fundraising takes a big part of the time of all the people involved, even the kids, but that's how it is, if one has to dance with the musungus (white people) to touch their heart and their pockets, let us dance.
I was given the chance to spend three days with them while staying with a family, getting a taste the conditions that people usually enjoy around here: the shower, a washbowl; the toilet, a hole in the ground (both with their own space separated from the rest of the world by walls, more or less precarious, but walls); the light, the sun, candles or a torch; the alarm clock, the birds – the sun helps but the windows are so small that it barely gets in; the kitchen, a small annex; the backyard, the plantation of bananas and matoke; and in spite of the proximity of the water, every drop that is used has to be fetched from the lake – an engineer, please, go to the area and design a system to get the water up the hill more efficient than plastic containers.
I was there as a volunteer but, doing doing, I didn’t do much. Most of the time I played with the little ones of the family: origami birds, throwing stones and bottle caps when I finally got hold on them, messing around with the touch screen of my computer (while the battery lasts). At school, I taught half an hour of Maths and the rest of the time I let them love me, trying to multiply the number of little hands that each of my fingers could hold. We also did some flips, but when the sun struck and I saw that the line was getting longer and longer and fights were starting, I stopped; my kidneys couldn’t get any more kids to fly in the air.
The impressions about Jinja, the sunset cruise on Lake Victoria and the rafting of the Nile stay for a future post. For now, just saying that I’ve come back alive and I’ve enjoyed it like a little child.
Thursday, 17 November 2011
The stars
The stars of the wild chapter of the trip, by expense, effort and accumulation of good fortune, cannot be other than the mountain gorillas. We had the privilege and the big luck of getting permits at the very last minute to track the Rushegura group, and indeed we tracked them. Kicking the ground with my shin has left my leg looking like an impressionist painting and we got mud and water up to our ears, but seeing those creatures behaving with such familiarity in front of us was something simply incredible and worthy of any vicissitudes.
Mouths watered seeing the little one crawl on Silver Back’s back. The female that feeds the babies performed a meticulous nail cleaning under our sight. The games of the youngsters while the older made a lazy digestion laying on the ground were a real joy. The exhibition of power of the big boss left us petrified, although the guides translated the movement for us as a signal to the rest of the group that everything was ok – more than one got their heart jumping for a while thanks to the call to calm. The melting point was when the favorite female extended her arm towards the big guy, with a movement that could very well have been a caress, to let him know that she was also leaving with the rest of the group, and it was time that he moved his lazy ass. Shortly afterwards, the yet-to-be-named little one played with the branches until mum passed by to follow the group in the migration. At that moment he just hopped on her back with a grace that we bipedal primates are incapable of hanging from a branch. We wanted more, but we accepted what we got knowing that invading their privacy once a day is already at the border of what such a susceptible creature can stand, and conscious of the GREAT fortune that we had had in contemplating those scenes.
That same afternoon we followed the Waterfalls trail to get another of those memorable “falling elephants and hippos” kind of rain (four days later my boots are still wet). The day was exhausting and simply unforgettable. It was very nice to share the sunset chatting with part of the gorilla-troop. A few hours of slippery trek under the rain don’t allow to get to know people at all, but sharing moments of that intensity somehow opens the paths for communication, gives something important in common, and makes it very easy to feel affectionate for whom just hours before where absolute strangers (and I owe very good friends to that!). Later that evening, the guard to whom we had invited for dinner and a beer as thank you for giving us the opportunity to track the group, offered us (good trap) a delicious dinner with African plates made out of fresh local produces. Yummy!! And what a nice guy. I am sure his new tourism enterprise is going to be a hit in less than a couple of years. Maybe I should have asked him if he accepts business partners; I could even find a stable source of income after all!
Taking a breath
Last week has been just crazy with wildlife, rain and mud. We somehow managed to move around in a country in which the definition of highway dangerously merges with that of muddy path full of holes, we camped under sun and rain, and we got so wet that we didn’t get really dry until we got out of the Impenetrable Bwindi and back to the “civilization”. If I try to make a summary of all the things I’ve seen I am pretty sure I’ll leave something out. Depending on the moment one thing or another comes to my mind: animals, people – locals and as strangers as myself - landscapes, means (and ways) of transport…
Camping among hippos and warthogs was something. At the beginning it was difficult to catch some sleep, but I think it was more the sleeping on the floor thing and the loud wind than the company. Seeing the King of the Wild walking around the savannah, stopping here and there to mate with his travel partner was… surprising; one never thought of Simba having such little resistance, if you know what I mean. The elephants, which from the distance and in the shade of a terrace made that simple breakfast a feast, and in the close distance from the boat, accompanied buffalos, hippopotamus and crocs making that one a memorable afternoon, allowed us to see them one last time, just before we run out of light, right at the border of the road, as if we weren’t the species that almost finished them up. The hippos – yes, I need to name them again – playing the soundtrack of our trip, dropping by our neighborhood, swimming in the river that separated us from Congo or in the channel through which we enjoyed the boat ride. What a beautiful animal! The chimps that, comfy high up in the tree, didn’t ask for much of a walk for us to see them, but made us twist our necks. The antelopes, the gorgeous bushbacks and the others, more reddish, all around the savannah, alert when the lioness was near by, magnificent postcard under the tree next to our tents. About the stars of the week I better talk in another post since this one is already over the attention span of some .
I have been resting these days in the lovely Byoona Amagara, in Lake Bunyonyi, enjoying the views, the good food and the library (almost three books in two days!). Now I am looking for a quieter and, hopefully, more involved chapter of the trip. In the few days I am going to spend wherever I stop I doubt I am going to be really useful to anyone, but I hope to get to know some of the projects that are running far from the high spheres that I always hear associated with the same corrupted word…
Saturday, 12 November 2011
If you ever go to Uganda
Bring your NEW dollars, year 2000 or more, with no trace of anything, no scratch, specially, not folded on the middle because they tend to get a tiny cut that you won’t see but they will find, just bring them as taken out of the oven, or they will be as useful as the monopoly notes. If they are new, they are accepted in many places, specially at the National Parks, which are the most expensive places around here. With other currencies you’ll have to get change at the bank. I don’t know if they are so picky there, I’ll let you know if I try. I would say they didn’t look at them so much when I got the first Schillings at the airport…
(someone told me this is a general issue around Africa)
Wednesday, 2 November 2011
Spanish tortilla
It’s been more than a week of this now, but I didn’t find the moment to put the picture before. It’s funny how in different parts of the world we tend to assign nationalities to dishes without giving much of a thought to whether they come from those places or not. It surprised me when I arrived to Uganda the fact that you can find Spanish omelette in every menu around here. It was even more surprising to find out that what they serve is what in Spain is called French omelette.
In any case, as it is already a tradition, wherever I go I end up making a real Spanish omelette o tortilla española. In this occasion it was a team work since there were two of us from Spain (the other two Spanish members of the crew had left already; 4 Spanish women and 1 German guy, we beat them in this game). We had to improvise quite a bit. The pan, thicker than usual for these affairs, worked pretty well and did not get stuck to the potatoes; the oil was not olive oil, of course, but that is a luxury anyway, so the sunflower seed oil counted as part of the original recipe. The fire, to focused on the center of the pan, almost burns our delicatessen; the plate… The plate was the most creative part of all. Do you remember those colorful stools from the 80’s that had some storage space inside? Well, the lid of one of those was the plate to turn the tortilla. The best of all was that, ones made, it was already on the table.
The dinner was Hispano-Nigerian, both in the people and in the dishes. Everything was delicious but, since I am not sure how to write the names of the African dishes, I prefer to leave the picture and avoid kicking one more language.
Tuesday, 1 November 2011
Wet party
This morning was amazingly sunny. It seemed as if they had called the sun in to make the Baganda King’s ceremony pretty. Everything was ready: tents, cake, drums, the pretty dresses… Everything was running smooth. The drums were playing and they took turns to sing. Someone sang real bad and if I were not sure that it had nothing to do with it, I would say he got the one up there controlling the tap angry. All the elephants and hippos of the savannah, my word. Rivers every where, waterfalls down the stairs, pools at the basketball court (location of the ceremony).
The drums never stopped, though, not even when the heal fell over the metallic roofs competing to be the main contribution to the soundtrack. Someone should set up a meteorological station here and study the phenomenon. The worst “cold drop” is nothing next to this spontaneous storms (and that’s a direct translation of a meteorological phenomenon that occurs every Fall in the area where I am from; basically, at the end of the summer the contrast between the temperature of the air and the sea causes the sky to fall apart in minutes, we get flooded – because even though it happens every year we are not prepared – and shortly after the summer is history and we can leave a most pleasant autumn and winter. That is, of course, if there have not been major problems for privileged us).
Just moments later it was sunny, of course.
Now you see it, now you don’t see it
Some students working on their lab classes or their mini-projects.
All the material waiting on a bench to get ready to leave. Most of all this is staying and will be the foundations of the new research lab.
Thursday, 27 October 2011
Fly collection
The course is arriving to an end. The students are working on their own projects, doing experiments and searching scientific literature to develop their proposals. Going around the class and asking them you can see how they are getting it. If you ask, at the beginning they hesitate. If you let them talk, the story starts to make sense. They just need a bit of guidance. Sometimes they make mistakes, who hasn’t! But that’s science: you do it, you do it again, and again and again, and in the end you can do it almost with your eyes closed. Tomorrow they will start the presentations and on Saturday everything will come to an end. And end with promise to be continued: more flies, some molecular biology, plans for the future of East Africa… I can’t believe this is over.
I’ve taken the chance today to play around with the pictures I took over a week ago with the intention of illustrating the work with flies which, in the end, is the reason for us to be here. The pictures are a bit pathetic due to the precarious photographic technique (my small digital camera looking through the ocular of the dissection scope) and the equally precarious shape of the scope (no complains! they were very valuable donations!). Excuse the low quality of the pictures and take the chance, if at all possible, to learn something.
A cornerstone of fly work is differentiating males and females since the arranged crosses are at the base of genetics. Males have their bottom black and they have two small black structures in the anterior pair of legs called sex combs. They use these combs in the sexual courtship of the female.
In order to make sure that we get only the progeny that we want out of each cross, it is fundamental that the females are virgins. Virgin flies are distinguishable from the older ones because their pigmentation is lighter and in their abdomen the meconium is still visible. They are frequently bigger than older flies because they are like inflated.
The light pigmentation of the virgins is obvious even without the scope and it’s easier to recognize when there are older flies around to compare them with. You should be careful, though, when working with flies of different genetic background since there are mutations that make the pigmentation lighter and old flies can look like virgins to the untrained eye.
The flies that have just hatched are very easy to recognize since they still have their wings folded and they are not bloated.
When we need many many flies to set up a cross (because we need a lot of progeny for our next experiment) it is necessary to work with the help of temperature to get the most out of the clock. The optimum temperature for fly development is 25ºC. At this temperature the flies reach sexual maturity in six hours (I could maybe say eight, but I prefer not to risk it). When kept at 19ºC, development slows down and that time doubles. The maths are easy: if you want every fly that comes out of a tube (or bottle), the usual is to collect them early in the morning, after lunch and right before you leave in the evening. You keep them at 25ºC during the day and at 19ºC at night, and you don’t want to leave early to make sure that they are still virgins in the morning. Taking into account that a female can lay around 500 eggs, if you collect all the progeny from a cross with four or five females, with the normal proportion of 1:1 male:females, you can see how in a week you can get a considerable number of flies. Most of the times you don’t need so much hassle.
If we can’t collect virgins so often and we want to increase the number of flies available for the cross we can select females at the late pupal stage. It’s more difficult to see them, but the same sex combs present in the adult male can be seen at this stage. I know the cartoons are pathetic but I already said I am no artist, right? This technique is also useful to select males and females that need to be kept isolated from the very beginning for a behavioral experiment.
Wednesday, 26 October 2011
What a blast
Urban landcape
I don’t remember in which town I recorded this on the way from Ishaka to Mbarara, but this is a pretty typical town around here. The companies choose the most ignominious colors to paint houses and people let them do it for a bit of money. The architecture is another thing that has me thinking. I just can’t see how those saloon-like cement blocks became the most popular building.
Tuesday, 25 October 2011
Return trip to Bunyonyi
The views from the top of the lake are great. The weather didn’t allow for much enjoyment, but it clearly has possibilities. The place where I took this picture was way out of our budget, but we managed to appear when the rain started and they let us stay under the roof long enough to take some photos.
The bodas remind me of the motorcycles that men used to ride in my parents village. There are hundreds of them, everybody uses them, and they can transport just about everything, including coffins (I hope it was empty!).
Some of us were more relaxed than others on the canoe ride, but we all had fun.
People have some sense of humor around here.
Monday, 24 October 2011
Inspired
I arrived last night from my weekend adventure. I’ll write about it soon, but something crossed my path and got my attention this morning. A good friend of mine sent the link to a blog post that put words to my thoughts. It’s one of those rare occasions in which I feel someone has been reading my mind; someone actually feels the way I do! I couldn’t let it go lost. No matter where I am or what I am doing, I am still a radical scholar.
Be that radical anyway. Be the scholar you think you should be, bringing your whole self to the table, finding your passion and making it your scholarship, and having a plan that will help you become a leader in your field.
Kate Clancy - The three things I learned at the Purdue Conference for Pre-Tenure Women: on being a radical scholar – Scientific American blog Context and Variation
I greatly recommend reading the whole post. Is not that long, and it’s as inspiring as a canoe trip on the waters of the lake Bunyonyi through sunset into dusk.
Friday, 21 October 2011
The university
I went for a walk today and took some pictures so you can have a more realistic idea of how things are around here.
The road to the university. The picture is taken from the entrance (looking towards the main road), so the university is at my back.
The entrance.
The guards’ house.
From the door of our laboratory we see the pharmacy block (yes, that thing on the lower-right corner is a cow).
Our lab with the students arriving (very) slowly after lunch.
Our corridor. The area where the students are is where the computer class is located. The router is there and it seems it’s there where you can best connect to the university network. I still haven’t managed to make it work in my computer. Hopefully we have Sadiq’s phone, which can be a portable modem. The connection is still crappy, especially in the afternoon, but we can take it with us to the hotel.
The computer class. The tables have the surface made of glass and the computers are underneath so the students can see the screen and the board. That’s so smart! The can take notes and pay attention to the teacher, and! they can’t hide behind the screens to sleep, facebooking, etc…
I took the picture of the lecture from a hidden corner but it still shows how things are here, right? What I don’t understand is why are they wearing the labcoat. Wait! They are in Medical School, that’s why :o)
THE shop. If you don’t find it here you have to go to the village to look for it.
The basketball court.
The printing store?
You have seen how sunny it was when I walked around, right? Take a look to the weather one hour later.
Thursday, 20 October 2011
The students
At the end of the students presentations we asked each of them to do a little drawing representing their project on the board of the lab. The final result can be seen in the picture.
Abba has studied the correlation between the relative length of the index and ring finger, whish is determined by age 2 and correlates with the prenatal exposure to androgens (and with the tendency to aggressive behaviors!), and other traits that are determined later on as the diameter of the wrist and hip circumferences. His passion is the study of memory retrieval.
Paulin is studying in Cameroon the potential of a plant (I’ll keep the name so no-one can steal his idea) in the war against those ticks that martyrize the cattle (and anyone who shares the path with them, I am the proof of that [I can testify that they share space with fleas, no ticks, my mistake]).
Lucille works evaluating the action of insecticides in Tanzania, doing lab and field studies to analyze their efficacy and safety.
Ngattu studies malaria, tuberculosis and meningitis from an epidemiologic point of view and searches for a better and quicker diagnose to reduce the risk of contagion.
Nelson works in Malawi analyzing the efficacy of malaria drugs in pregnant women and uses genetic markers to study the resistance to drugs in Plasmodium (the little creature that generates the disease). He is already thinking about using Drosophila as a model to study malaria and the resistance to drugs.
Sam has studied the torsion angle of the humerus (the representation of the anatomy department of the Kampala International University –KIU- , co-organizer of the course, is noticeable). Using this course as a start-up, a Masters in Anatomy and Neurobiology is going to begin at KIU, and Sam wants to continue his research comparing the number of synapsis in lab animals vs animals from the wild. Will wild animals have more synapsis? and, if they do, will they be smarter?
Steven is characterizing the proteins involved in odor perception in tse-tse fly and is very interested in the possibility of using Drosophila as a model system.
Jimmy, another anatomist, has studied the epidemiology of atherosclerosis (the deposit of fat plaques in the arteries).
Yunusa, the youngster of the course, is still thinking what to do for his Master’s project. He has a great passion for public health and wants to do a PhD in a good institution studying mental dementia in HIV patients.
Iliya Ezekiel is interested in the study of epilepsy and sleep. Before the course, he was thinking in an experimental setting to study spatial learning in rats. Now he is considering a change of system.
Sylviane, also from Cameroon, is analyzing the effect of traditional remedies to treat epilepsy.
Maureen, who has come all the way from Kenya with her little baby, studies the epidemiology of diverse diseases and the distribution of the different mosquito species that transmit them.
Okpanachi Alfred is studying diabetes type II.
Goji has studied the effect of an African plant extract in the level of glucose in the blood using rats to which they have induced hyperglycemia.
Bolaji Samuel wants to study the effects of the combined use of alcohol and cannabis and he is also studying the possibility of using Drosophila as a model.
We still have to hear from Joseph Oloro, although from the conversations that we have had this days I know it has something to do with erectile dysfunction.
(Students, please, forgive me if I misplaced something or if trying to summarize I simplified your work so much that the description is almost wrong)
When the sun comes out
Wednesday, 19 October 2011
Not “just” flies
In case there is someone I haven’t told yet, the reason/ excuse to come precisely to Uganda, precisely now, was the opportunity to participate in the Drosophila neurogenetics course Uganda 2011 that has been organized by Lucía Prieto Godino and Sadiq Yusuf, both of them doctors (putting the title before still sounds weird to me). The course is for graduate students or more advanced researchers and it has a level that is simply impressive. Isa and Lola taught the initial introductory lessons and Lucía and Tom are showing them what Drosophila and other insects can contribute to the neurobiology field. I have filled some gaps with a bit of fly genetics and I have a couple of classes left that are not at all for beginners. As said, a very high level. The students are responding wonderfully and show an interest hard to find in other latitudes where studying is more a punishment or a pastime than a real motivation.
During the last two days the students have presented briefly the issues they have been working on and talked about how they can use what they are learning these days. Seeing that after a week and a half most of them already have ideas of experiments that they can do with Drosophila that can help them in their research on malaria, both fighting the mosquitos and the study of the pathology, on tze-tze fly, diabetes, epilepsy, the use of cannabinoids… was a moving experience. Seeing them torture a little grasshopper to measure the action potentials of their muscles when they tickled it wasn’t so enjoyable but, what are you going to do, you learn to walk walking and electrophysiology is best learned by doing electrophysiology.
Flies, the main players of the event, we have them everywhere in trays full of tubes, pots for them to lay eggs and plates where the larvae are growing. On the end of the bench that greats us to the lab there is a growing community of plastic pots with the most varied insects, grasshoppers, mantis, wasps, cockroaches, and many others waiting their turn to get on the stage and get their currents measured. They collected most of them during a field trip with the students the other day. Others, we find them in the lab as the days go by. Others are brought by the students, professors and assistants that collaborate with the organization of the course: everybody contributes with something here, even if it’s with bugs.
In the picture, the snail goes for an expedition on the roof of the brown grasshopper house. What you see further back on the right is a wasp with the size of a thumb. Scary…
Tuesday, 18 October 2011
Pouring
Ps: As you can imagine, with that kind of rain the power went down and with it the internet connection. Today is cloudy from first hour in the morning, so we’ll see what falls from the heights. One of our guardians (because everybody in the organizing committee worries so much for us that I’ve named them the guardians) told us the local expression for the phenomenon: it rains elephants and hippos. I don’t think it’s an exageration…
Monday, 17 October 2011
Work place
1) Fresh tubes with sugar-based food that our Drosophila love.
2) Lamp or light source, which needs a push at the bulb-door to start running but gives a nice steady light until the electricity of the whole city goes down (every day at some point, especially if pours like yesterday).
3) Flies sleeping after breathing fly snooze, a stinky but effective way of putting flies to sleep without the headaches that ether gave me in my genetics class as an undergrad. Once they are sleeping, we can select males/ females, virgins/ old flies, and we can set up the experiments we need.
4) Since we don’t have a pad, the post-it pack is doing the job. One could work without it but, after a while hitting the bench with plastic tubes, the noise gets annoying and, sometimes, a bad move can mean a broken tube and goodbye dear flies.
5) THE brush, my friend, which needed some bandage work after arrival from California but is doing a great job.
6) The dissection scope, old and misaligned, but enough to get the virgins out of the tube before they do anything naughty with the wrong male
7) Trays with flies waiting to be taken care of or just enjoying life while we let them reproduce
Sunday, 16 October 2011
Under cover
After working a bit in the lab and say hi and bye to Isa and Lola (the faculty that taught the first classes and were spending a few days in a safari lodge) we’ve headed into town for lunch. We have been the center of all looks in the afternoon walk. Interesting place… We were sitting in a terrace and I have warned the troop, well, the other two, that the clouds were looking bad. I guess I haven’t insisted enough. As son as we’ve started walking half an hour later, it begun pouring. The locals started running and so did we. No time to get the raincoat out. I did that under the small roof that we shared with a few others, while looking, worried, how the water evacuation channel filled up. Now I know why everything is so green…